What a lovely little frock I’ve found! At first, I was drawn to it because it looks like a pinafore apron, especially because of the ruffly shoulders. It has little purple and teal flowers ribbon trailing out of baskets. And ric rac! I’m such a sucker for ric rack. Unfortunately, we were hit by a giant thunderstorm this evening, and as I was running to my bus stop with my bike in a downpour, I slipped and fell with my bike on top of me. I suffered a scraped shoulder and arm, and my dress was crushed with dirt and blood. I also had my millinery violets in my front pocket, and they bled a huge purple stain down the front of the dress. As soon as I got home, I soaked the stain in my own personal savior, Biz Laundry Stain Fighter and the stain has nearly disappeared! I first found out about Biz when I worked at the Antique Expo in Portland, during a conversation with a woman whose hobby was to restore Edwardian linens. She swore by it, and now that I’ve been using it for two years – I do too!
My tattoo is now two years old, and I’m still smitten by the design. My friend Grace drew the bunny and the hand is based off of Victorian mourning jewelry. Annie Mess is my artist for this piece and my Valentine leg pieces, and if you’re in the Austin area I highly recommend her. She likes to brought cupcakes to tattoo appointments

I’ve been watching 1940s house for the last few days. What a show! It’s so exciting and emotional, furthered on by the historical context and war-time committee that influences the event in the family’s life. They must black out their windows, build an Anderson Bomb Shelter, and eat on rationing tickets. I know I’m about 10 years behind in discovering the show, but if you haven’t seen it, it’s a wonderful show to experience. The way “living” in the 1940s has changed around the life of the people in the show is really inspirational. The grandmother of the show cut her food budget by 50% by shopping for grocery items in a 1940s way, that is, less packaged food and fresh produce and meat from the butcher.
Today was rather cool so I could wear Gabardine, which Texas heat usually does not allow.
Here is my 1930s style manicure, with the moons and the tips left naked. I was apprehensive to try out this style because I thought this would be difficult to execute, but it was so simple! The secret is to paint horizontally on the nail, not vertically like normal paint jobs. I have very pronounced moons in my nails, so I was able to follow them with the brush and create the pattern with little problem. I always notice 1930s manicures because there is inevitably a close up of a woman holding a telegraph letter. I’ve cut my nails into little sharp points for about 4 years now and it’s a very satisfying shape and it makes my nails grow longer because there is less surface area on the edges to nick.

Center, and Clockwise from top R:
Images from John Galliano’s Fall Fashion 2007, the “Boudoir Doll” fashion show
Diagram of Dita VonTeese’s Moon Manicure from Styleist
Diagram of Fingernail shape
1930s photograph – two toned and kitten claw sharp

Here’s my spin on a 1930s Chorus Girl outfit – I’m ready to dance!
I love this color of peach – and the garment has little floral embroidery and a rotting silk ribbon at the front.

I check this book out through interlibrary loan a few weeks ago and it has literally reshaped my techniques of pincurling. It is an invaluable resource for understanding curls and has the most ridiculous details of how to set them, how to brush them out, and how to sculpt them into different styles. Information about it here: Vintage Hairstyling on Amazon, but check your local library to check it out first.

Speaking of pincurls – everyone PLEASE check out the newest issue of Zelda, Bellewether and I are contributors to a full-color pincurl tutorial. It also features:

• COVER STORY : Like a Melody: Doris Eaton Travis (interview)
• A True Classic: Robert Osborne (interview),
• Marsha Hunt: On Golden Era Fashion (interview) ,
• Cocktails : Dead Men Tell No Tales, But Their Spirits Do!,
• Pincurling Tutorial,
• A Dress Shoe for the Man of Action (in 1922),
• Illustrations by Fyodor Pavlov, Lawrence Gullo, and Joslyn Zoe, Gelber & Manning,
• Vicky Butterfly : Vintage Burlesquer,
• Sage Advice : Mister Burton,
• Vintage City 101: Los Angeles, On the Town
• All of this for $7.50!! That’s less than a cocktail!

My hair is set to make the curls above by backwards curling them and pinned at the scalp so that they strand strait up. When they are combed out they make big corkscrew curls that boing into shape and stay that way for a few days (with resetting at night). Upon talking about flapper ‘fros, Nika recommended washing my hair with BIG from Lush because it has salt and citrus in it, so I tried out my salt face scrub instead (because I already owned it) and it turned out so well! It’s very fluffy and clean feeling, even four days later! I think when I run out of the scrub I’ll just make a paste of sea salt and citrus along with my normal combination of Apple Cider Vinegar and baking soda. Yes, I like to cook with my hair.

Top Left: The gals from “Gold Diggers of 1937″
Bottom Left:Chorus girls from “The Singing Kid”
Top Right:From “Dancing Lady” (1933)

It’s the end of the week! Hello! I made it! It’s the last day of my pincurl set so my dirty hair is hiding under this hat!
I very nearly typed “July” instead of January in my header. It is 76F outside and I was lucky enough to get my daily outfit taken when it was somewhat cloudy this morning! I don’t understand Texas, one month it’s bitterly cold, and a few weeks later it’s cotton dress weather again. I’ll be sleeping with just a sheet and the Arkansas Air Conditioning (peppermint and water in a spritzer) on before you know it!
These Remix Shoes have been on my wishlist now for ages! I have been searching for green shoes of any sort for much, much longer. When Fleur posted about them as being on sale last week, I hi-tailed it to Amazon and ordered me some. I really like them so far, although I’ve only worn them with socks. When it gets hot enough to go with out stockings (let’s say, in a week, Austin time, har har) I will let you know how they feel. After this shoot, I re-laced all the way down the front and I like them better… they look less like grandma SAS shoes.

Oh, and hello again to Miss Belleweather. Despite not feeling well today, she looks pretty cute all in pink.
Ladies, this is how one wears a hat AND has a crown of pincurls going at the same time!

When I was in Seattle, I got my hair fingerwaved on Tuesday. Here it is, Friday, and my set is still quite convincing! I got caught in several rain storms in Seattle and in Austin, so I’m surprised it’s held up so well! I’ve slept with it wrapped up in a silky handkerchief with the little curls taped to my forehead. I just brushed out my hair this evening and will try and wear it as a looser wave for tomorrow’s post.

Do you know about hair tape? It’s pink and about $4 at beauty supply stores. It’s a special tape that will help you to hold kiss curls in place without sticking to the hair or leaving prong clip marks on the curls. Plus, it kind of sort of blends in so one might feel comfortable going to the grocery store on a quick errand while wearing it.

View from the front View from the side.

View from the back.

Here I am, pictured above, on the sea-facing coast of Ilha Grande, Brazil during my vacation there to see G. this past summer. Before this photo was taken, G. and I had hiked several miles up and down a mountain through rain and lots of puddles. I have just taken off my extremely muddy shoes so that I might dry my toes in the soft powdery sand.

I had only bought one pair of shoes to Brazil, some flat t-strap Mary Jane that were black, shiny and perfect for dressing up an outfit but still being able to ride my bike. I had such fun on this trip to the island! The sights were so wonderful that I didn’t mind offering my favorite shoes as a sacrifice to the Rainforest!

I have been traveling a lot lately in the past year – mostly to attend my own gallery openings or just to vacation to see old friends. Seattle, New Orleans, San Francisco, Providence, Belo Horizonte, Brazil: in each city I’ve managed to wear nearly 100% vintage with no hassle and little effort. I’ve made a list for you all below in hopes that you’ll remember it for your next trip!

I first discovered Tea Tree baby wipes during a layover in the Denver airport on my way to Arkansas for holidays in 2005. I bawked at using what is essentially a baby wipe at first, but I love tea tree oil and use it in my baths and as laundry solution so I wasn’t opposed to trying it. I’ve found that the wipes are indispensible cleaning tools for long days on airplanes, trains or walking city blocks. They freshen face, backs of necks, knees, and anywhere else you might need perking up.

Wear practical lingerie. At least two slips, one dark, one light, will suit most needs. In the first image of this post, you can see my trusty pink slip poking out from my print dress. It is a must! A comfortable, flattering base such as a lace full slip can also double as pajamas, as I am oft to forget to pack them in the first place. Also, you never have to get fully undressed if you wear a slip under everything, which is very helpful if one is staying in crowded hostels.

Part of the hassles of smart dressing means dealing with wrinkles in your fancy things. My solution? When packing, choose lace or patterned dresses; these garments won’t show that they’ve been squished in a backpack because the patterns are distracting. I roll each garment separately in a big ziploc bag so that nothing gets snagged while in transport. Those little lace bits are magnets for hook-and-eye closures to snag!
Still have wrinkles? I have been known to put a silk scarf over a screaming tea kettle to smooth the wrinkles out. Just don’t get the steam too close!

I am at the Musee Mechanique in San Francisco in front of the French Execution game in this photo. For this, I set my front kisscurl at night and put on a helmet cloche hat in the morning! It saves a lot of time and looks very chic at the same time.
This last trip to Seattle was a total treat for me – I got my hair fingerwaved by the loveliest young lady at the Aveda Institute. It cost about $20 and has lasted for four days so far! In my experience, those who are willing to do fingerwaves are either salons who cater to vintage styles or those fresh out of beauty school. Fingerwaves and pincurls are still taught in schools, I’m told, although most think they are outdated. I’m happy to find a stylist who is excited about fingerwaves, because usually when I phone a salon to ask if they provide them, I expect a groan!
Paired with a little dark lipstick and groomed eyebrows, the fingerwave will dress up any little black dress or spice up a vintage sweater set. Also, old ladies on the bus will smile and point to your head and whisper to their grand children, “That’s how grammy did her hair when she was a little girl!” It’s so cute!

Do you have any travel tips for Vintage Vivants?
Bon Voyage!

It was actually raining really hard when I took this photo!
Like I’ve said before… I LOVE MATCHY MATCHY!
Just the small bits of primary colored tweed that compliment the dress make this outfit very successful in my eyes
Here are my little bows! I scalped my Hello Kitty plush and now she looks SO much like Dear Daniel with no bow!

I stitched one single pronged pin curl clip to the back of each bow, so I can slip it on when I feel like channeling Hello Kitty.

Yellow Floofy Bow from a 1930s Valentine

The Gale Sisters

Trivia from IMDB: When June was performing with her twin sister Jean Gale and her other two sisters, Joan Gale and Jane Gale (also twins), they were billed as quadruplets instead of two sets of twins.
Ann Dvorak
Jeanette MacDonald
Fay Wray – a still from The Wax Museum (1933)

And the ultimate “beau” of the 20s herself, Miss Clara Bow! I like how she’s literally surrounded by floating bows in the background and berribboned on her head and shoes.

Bows are extremely cheap and very facile to work into your vintage wardrobe. I bought a ziplock bag full of scrap ribbon from a craft store for about $3.00 this past summer. There are about a million and a half different combinations of styles: Silky, matte, grosgrain, gingham, skinny, fat, lacy, double layered. I have a few multiples of the basics: red, navy, white, creme, lace as well as silly ones like canary yellow and blossom pink for special occasions. Personally, I like to match my red lipstick to my bows, but then again, I’m an advocate for matchy-matchy accessories.

As long as the ribbon is about two feet long and able to be tied around the circumference of the head, it will work! If you’re wearing a darker colored bow you can seal off the frayed edges with a match (just don’t burn yourself!), or you can use Dritz’s Fray Check to draw a line at the edge of lighter colored ribbon. Wait for the Fray Check to dry, and snip off the ribbon’s edge. Fray Check is a liquid plastic and tends to yellow over time, so don’t use it on heirloom ribbons or garments.

The secret to hair ribbon placement is such: Place the ribbon on your crown where you want it to lie. Tie the ribbon around your head and tie it at the base of the skull. Tie the bow, making large loops. Rotate the bow from the base of the skull to the top of the head, and you’re done! Experiment with wearing the ribbon at the crown, the sides and at different angles. Or, be like Hello Kitty and have it right smack above your left eye. In fact… I’ve been sacrificing some of my Hello Kitty plush in a ribbon project myself! This post will follow!

When storing your ribbons, make sure not to rumple them. I hang mine on a stand meant for necklaces, but by all means, clip them to a piece of string hung on the wall! To “iron” your ribbons, dunk them in hot water and lay them flat to dry overnight.

This is my favorite scene from Ghostworld.

My list of beauty secrets reads as if my grandmothers penned it

Eleanor Boardman

My list of beauty secrets reads as if my grandmothers penned it:

- I cut my nails at a sharp angle so that they resemble kitten claws. This helps them to grow longer because there is less surface area for the sides to get busted up. This is also how lots of 1930s movies show womens’ manicures to look like.

- Strangers tell me I smell good all of the time. I use essential oils mixed with grape seed oil on my pulse points, wrists and knees. I use a mix of lavender, bergamont, clove, citrus, amber, rose and rosemary, depending on what I feel like that morning.

- Put an index card behind eyelids to prevent mascara application from ruining eyeshadow.

- Ladies pinch; whores use rouge. I am both a lady and a whore, it seems.

- I have deep set eyes so my eyeliner is always stamping little half moons onto my eyelids. I use a lot of concealer on the eyelid to lessen the effect.

- Cotton swabs for everything! I have them overflowing in little teacups in my vanity. In fact, I keep lots of things organized in little teacups and saucers!

- Sugar scrubs, salt scrubs, asprin scrubs, sand scrubs – whatever the method, I exfoliate often.

- Use four different flavors of toothpaste for taste variety and effectiveness (I use: Crest Peppermint, Ayurvedic Clove, Jason Teatree and Tom’s Anise)

- Wet hair and set it once a week. Shower as much (or as little) as I like while wearing a fashionable showercap. Seldom do I shampoo unless I’ve biked 20 miles or am really dusty. I follow the curly girl method for my ringlets.

- Swim in natural springs lots during the summer because the spring water makes my hair move and feel differently.

- Shave legs half as often if I wear knee socks and moisturize the kneecaps

- I always have my toes painted outlandishly because it makes me smile when I take off my shoes in the dead of winter (this week’s combination is brown with silver polkadots)

- Vaseline smeared over kohl lined eyes is a simple fix for classic eyes

- I use a proper setting lotion (1:4 combination of Lottabody:water) and I add some lavender essential oil to it.

- Beer or liquor resets curls. When I had a mohawk I spiked it with Scotch, but now I use beer to recurl fallen tendrils if I’ve been out at a bar dancing.

- I’ve shaved my forearms for 6 years now. I’ve forgotten why I started doing it. Just one of those things.

- I took my lighted magnifying mirror off my vanity and only use it once or twice a month. Who needs to see a macro view of their face everyday?

- Cocoa butter or massage bars from Lush for perfume and moisturizing everything that’s not my face.

- Everything Balm for my face and for sore muscles (not vegan but I got it a long time ago and it lasts forever!)

- Steep lavender blossoms in hot water and make a “tea.” Strain and use in a squirt bottle. Lavender water perks up curls and smells heavenly.

- I live in the hot, humid South. I keep a spraybottle of “Arkansas Air Conditioning” in my fridge that has 10 drops of Peppermint Essential oil and water in it. This is invaluable for cooling off on hot days, just keep away from eyeballs, mucus producing orifices and genitals.

- “Arkansas Air Conditioning” is a great way to make friends. Bring a spraybottle to punk shows, house parties, and bbqs and ask to spritz people down. Both charming and helpful!

- The summer is too hot for stockings. If I’m going out and I want a suntan, I’ll do what my grandmother Betty did for pantyhose in WWII: fill a tub with warm water and dissolve 6 black teabags in the water. Soak in the water for about 15 minutes and dry off with an old towel. Draw a line up the back of the legs with brown eyeliner for a seamed stocking look.

- Buy a few cheap paper or fabric decorative parasols from Asian stores and use them instead of sunscreen. I’m only exposed to sun when I walk to the grocery store because I work indoors and have a 3 minute bikeride to work. Why stink like sunscreen all day when you can have an adorable prop?

- Drink 10 cups of tea a day. Eat lots of young coconut right from the shell. Pick my own vegetables. Be raw until dinner.

Me and my adorable prop.

Her jawline: how lovely, how lovely.

(Anita Page photo from Drmacro.com)

This is a photo of me from April, 2006, when I was still mastering pincurls but hadn’t yet grown out my trademark kiss curls. I have been taking daily outfit photos now for four years!